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Product Designer
Product Manufacturer Product Description and Principal Function(s) Optim™ is one of the most exciting technical advances for years moving the global textile industry a step closer to realising the full potential of wool and it is the first fundamental alteration to the wool fibre in the history of fibre processing. It re-positions wool into new market areas that satisfy customer demand for lightweight quality and transeasonal innovation.Optim™ is a new state of the art fibre technology process developed by The Woolmark Company and CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology. Invetech has taken the prototype process and designed the machine for commercial manufacture and operation. The Optim™ process can produce two quite different supreme luxury fibres each with a series of properties and characteristics that uniquely identify them apart from other natural fibres. Optim™ Fine – a new generation of ultra-fine fibres with a structure and physical properties that closely resemble silk, providing weavers and knitters the scope to create high quality, sophisticated, lightweight fabrics that are soft to handle. Fabrics made from Optim™ Fine fibres have a silk-like touch, fluid drape, distinctive sheen and subtle lustre, plus the natural performance benefits of wool. The advanced equipment developed to produce Optim™ Fine fabrics typically uses twisted wool sliver of 19 microns, which stretches by some 40-50%, making each fibre 3 to 3.5 microns finer. The reduced micron fibre is then chemically set in this finer form and results in a fine, lustrous, silky soft strong fibre. Optim™ Max – a unique fibre with latent retraction potential, designed to develop volume and bulk in wool yarns. Following blending with untreated wool, the Optim™ Max fibre is allowed to contract during wet processing. This produces a revolutionary new yarn which is less dense and has greater covering power than an equivalent conventional yarn and is ideally suited to the manufacture of lightweight garments, particularly knitwear. Optim™ Max fibres are produced from twisted wool sliver to give an average fibre extension of 20-30%, which are temporarily set. During wet treatment, the Optim™ Max fibres retract fully to their original length, giving a soft, lightweight bulky yarn and fabric structure. In lightweight knitwear production, Optim™ Max blended yarn takes up more space, so less yarn is required per square metre compared with the equivalent in regular Pure New Wool. The Optim™ Wool Fibre Processing Machine performs the following continuous functions: 1. Draws conventional pre-gilled wool top through a heated chemical bath. 2. Applies false twist to the wool sliver. 3. Reduces wool fibre by 3 to 4 micron, adding substantial value. 4. Applies permanent set in a controlled temperature – time environment. 5. Removes the false twist. 6. Steps 2-4 are undertaken in an ambient pressure steam environment. 7. Operates in an automatic unattended mode after initial startup. Key Product Features and Benefits The Optim™ Wool Fibre Processing Machine design sets an exceptionally high standard in melding functional design requirement constraints into aesthetically pleasing lines while retaining ease of fabrication and assembly. The revolutionary nature of the fibre processing, and its premium niche position in the fibre market; is matched and enhanced by the clean, simple and elegant lines of the design.Product life cycle and environmental considerations: The machine is substantially constructed of stainless steel, ensuring a very long life, and therefore can readily be recycled. The machine does use chemicals conventionally used in wool processing and can be environmentally responsibly treated in normal wool plant effluent treatment. Features: The Optim™ process is itself a totally new concept in fibre processing and results in totally new and valued fibre properties – it is a breakthrough technology. The chemical treatment bath embodies a novel balance in features such as liquid levels, roller centre lines, wool sliver guides and frictional drag; which prevents the difficult to handle untwisted wool sliver from drafting apart. The patented epicyclic capstan drives provide false twist and capstan tension in a unique, novel, non-damaging to the fibre, continuous and reliable manner. Simplifications achieved in the design of the product: ‘Quick” release nip rollers for speed of replacement without the need to cut and re-splice the wool sliver. Water seals provide maintenance free zero leakage steam seals with unimpeded full length steam chest access for wool sliver threading. The machine consists of seven ‘bolt-together’ modules to greatly facilitate the ease of transport and assembly. Functions incorporated in the design, more effective functionality or increased efficiency: The PLC control system has data trend capabilities and functionalities normally only found in separate SCADA systems. The control system includes a modem which enables dial-up monitoring and fault diagnosis to anywhere around the world. Window heating allows clear vision of wool sliver under all operating conditions. Improvements in safety: Steam chests have positive displacement steam venting and delays prior to opening to prevent steam burns. Each hinged guard is fitted with two redundant solenoid operated guard lock switches which require power to unlock the guards. Dual channel safety monitoring circuitry is used to monitor the emergency stop and guard circuits. Motors are fitted with zero speed detection. Improvements in the use of materials for efficient manufacture: Extensive design review was held with sheet metal fabricators to incorporate their preferred manufacturing techniques in thin section, large span, seal welded, stainless steel construction. This resulted in reduced number of welds and better control of heat deflection. |
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Design Award
